Disclaimer: This article is all about drafting patterns and choosing the right fabric but not about sewing the piece. If relevant, I’ll attach video instructions on how to do so at the end.

THE PYJAMA TROUSERS

Are you ready for this Pyjama Trousers Sewing Pattern instructions? Let’s get into it!

This design shows straight leg trousers with an elastic waistband sitting on the natural waist that is 4cm wide and invisible pockets. That is the most simple version of this pattern but you can easily elevate is by adding an invisible fly and belt looks, or make them into shorts and even changing the pockets. If you’re interested in learning more, check out my ebook at the end of the article.

DIFFICULTY

These are the main characteristics of this pattern:

  • FOUNDATION: Trousers (instructions here)
  • WAISTBAND: Natural waist, Elastic, 4cm wide
  • LEG-LINE: Straight from the hips to the hem
  • DETAILS: Added ease at the waist in the form of gathers and invisible pockets on each side

 

This pattern should take you around 1h to draft and 2h to sew (both times assuming you are a beginner)

FABRIC

This pattern only needs one type of fabric but a second type of fabric can be used for the lining of the pockets if the main one is too thick.

  • Length: 1.5 to 2m depending on the width of the fabric and the added ease/length
  • Elastic: 4cm wide elastic, medium strength

 

For this design, different fabrics will have a different effect. You can make summer trousers using linen, pyjamas using cotton or even office appropriate trousers with flowy fabrics:

  • Cotton fabrics: I used gingham 100% cotton, no elasticity, 154 g/m2
  • Linen fabrics: Similar to cotton, look out for transparencies based on the thickness
  • Flowy fabrics: Anything adding viscose or poliester. Check this example

PATTERN PIECES

# Name Fabric Cut
1 Front Cut 2 main
2 Back Cut 2 main
3 Waistband Cut 1 main, on fold
4 Pockets Cut 4 main

Drafting Instructions

STEP 1 - The Foundation

Step number one is to change the shape of the trousers into the design we want

  1. Lower the waistline depending on how wide you want your waistband to be. In my example 4cm
  2. Draw a straight line from the hip point that goes up to the waist and down to the hemline. The line has to be perpendicular to the hem line
  3. Add 5cm (2inch) ease to the side seams, straighten the waistline and ignore any darts
  4. Check that both side seams are the same length, if not, just make the shorter one longer

STEP 2 - The Waistband

It’s time to finish the trousers structure by drawing the waistband. The Waistband we’re going to use in this pattern is a rectangle.

  1. Measure the front and back waistline and add them together
  2. Create a rectangle
    • Width: 2 x Waistband width (in my case 2 x 4cm =8 cm
    • Length:  Front and back waistlines

STEP 3 - The Pockets

I chose to draft inseam pockets because they are the most beginner friendly, but feel free to add any pockets you want.

  1. Choose how big the pocket opening should be (in my case 18cm)
  2. Decide how deep you want the pocket to be (in my case big enough to fit my phone)
  3. Now draw a shape similar to the one in the picture. Don’t worry if it’s not precise
  4. Mark two notches where the pockets will start and end on your trousers. In my case they start 4cm below the new waistline

STEP 4 - The Seam Allowances

The last step to finish the pattern is adding the seam allowances.

  1. Add 1cm seam allowances everywhere (except for the hem and one side of the waistband)
  2. The hem allowance is 2cm
  3. The CB of the waistband doesn’t have seam allowance because it’s cut on the fold

 

And just like that, the pattern is ready!

If you liked these instructions and are looking for more foundations and ways to modify them, you can check out my ebook on how to draft trousers.

There you have ALL the information you need to draft any trousers designs you’ve ever dreamed of. 

The ebook breaks down a pattern into:

  • The foundation: how to take measurements, draft them and fix any fitting issues
  • The Waistline: Instructions on how to change the waistline and how to add waistbands
  • The Length: I show you the modify the length to most typical ones
  • The Leg-line: Learn how to create leg-line designs like slim, tapered, straight or flared
  • The Details: Here you’ll find any design detail like yokes, pleats, turn ups, openings and many pocket designs 
  • The Finishes: Finally, learn how to finish up the pattern, add seam allowances, hems and all the important information

 

All in one place, check it out now!

Learn how to draft your dream trousers - eBook

€ 35,00

If you need a more step by step tutorial plus sewing instructions, here you have a video explaining all that:

Still curious? Here’s more