Disclaimer: This article is all about drafting patterns and choosing the right fabric but not about sewing the piece. If relevant, I’ll attach video instructions on how to do so at the end.
THE PEASANT BLOUSE
These are the sewing pattern instructions for the peasant blouse. This design is a gathered flowy blouse with a gathered boat neckline. It has raglan sleeves that are gathered as part of a continuous neckline with a flared or poet look at cuff level.
DIFFICULTY
These are the main characteristics of this pattern:
- FOUNDATION: Oversized Shirt (instructions here)
- NECKLINE: Boat round gathered neckline
- SLEEVES: Low cap height, Long, raglan gathered/poet (Instructions for the foundation here)
- DETAILS: Added flare to the neckline from waist line
This pattern should take you around 1h to draft and 1h to sew (both times assuming you are a beginner)
FABRIC
This pattern uses one type of fabric and it works best with natural fibers that are light weight and flowy.
- Fabric length: 1.5 to 2m depending on the length of the sweater, the sleeves and the added gathers at front and back
- Fabric type: 100% cotton voilé
PATTERN PIECES
| # | Name | Fabric Cut |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Front | Cut 1 main, on fold |
| 2 | Back | Cut 1 main, on fold |
| 3 | Sleeve | Cut 2 main |
Drafting Instructions
STEP 1 - The Necklines
This pattern shows a round boat neckline. In my example the shoulder is 5cm long and both front and back necklines are lowered by 7.5cm.
This is the best neckline for this design because of the gathers, but feel free to experiment with a deeper/narrower neckline if you want. If you change the measurements, remember that the shoulders should be the same length.
STEP 2 - The Raglan Sleeves
The next step is modifying the sleeves to be raglan, but before doing that, draft a low cap height long sleeve.
- To create this raglan, mark where you want it to be in your front and back pieces (in my case they go from where the armhole curve starts to 1/3 of the neckline).
- Separate these pieces and align them at the shoulder through a vertical line that will mark the middle of the sleeve
- Cut the sleeve pattern through the middle line and align the pieces too
- Redraw any lines
The raglan sleeve is patterned this way because we want added flare at the cuff. In this example I show a short sleeve because it is easier to handle when drafting, I would advise you to do the same and extend it at the end.
STEP 3 - The Gathers
In this step we add gathers through the slash and spread method. Here I show you how much ease I added but feel free to add more or less if you want to.
- Slash lines: For the front and back they go from mid-neckline to the side waistline. For the sleeves they go on each side.
- Front: cut through the line from the neckline and use the waistline as a pivot point. Separate the pieces by 14cm
- Back: cut through the line from the neckline and use the waistline as a pivot point. Separate the pieces by 13cm
- Sleeve: cut through the lines from the cap and use the cuff as a pivot point. Separate the pieces as much as you want. The more you separate, the more gathers
If you want to add flare to the bottom of the piece, you can follow the instructions in this article here.
STEP 4 - The Seam Allowances
The last step is to add the notches, pattern information and seam allowances.
- Add 1cm (3/8inch) seam allowances everywhere except for the centre front (CF) and back (CB), and the hems
- Add 2cm (3/4inch) at the hemlines
- Do not add any ease at CF or CB for the main pieces and yokes
I hope you enjoyed these Sewing Pattern Instructions for a Peasant Blouse and good luck sewing the piece!