Disclaimer: This article is all about drafting patterns and choosing the right fabric but not about sewing the piece. If relevant, I’ll attach video instructions on how to do so at the end.

THE RAGLAN TEE

This is a basic oversized t-shirt with short raglan sleeves, with side openings and a low and narrow “U” shaped neckline with a 1.5cm wide ribbing. It is really easy to pattern and it is really beginner friendly to sew too.

DIFFICULTY

These are the main characteristics of this pattern:

  • FOUNDATION: Oversized stretch (instructions here)
  • NECKLINE: Low and narrow U shape, with a 1.5cm wide ribbing
  • SLEEVES: Low cap height, Short, Raglan (Instructions for the foundation here)
  • DETAILS: Side openings starting at the waist line

This pattern should take you around 1h to draft and 1h to sew (both times assuming you are a beginner)

FABRIC

This pattern only needs one type of fabric but a second type of fabric can be used for the ribbing if you are looking for more elasticity there.

  • Length: 1.5 to 2m depending on the length of the tee and the sleeves
  • Elasticity: at least minimum stretch so the head passes through the neckline

 

When choosing the fabric, look at the weight. Thicker fabrics (170g/m2) will give a boxier look while lighter fabrics (140g/m2) will be more flowy. Some fabric recommendations include:

  • Knit fabrics (Cotton jersey): Check this example
  • Interlock fabrics: Check this example

PATTERN PIECES

# Name Fabric Cut
1 Front Cut 1 main, on fold
2 Back Cut 1 main, on fold
3 Sleeve Cut 2 main
4 Ribbing Cut 1 main, on fold

Drafting Instructions

STEP 1 - The Neckline

Lower the neckline into a U shape. This can be done for any shape, you can choose how wide or low you want it to be 

On top of that, remove the width of the ribbing too. In this case an extra 1.5cm

STEP 2 - The Sleeves

First, draw a low cap sleeve pattern with no ease by using the basic sleeve pattern, and shorten the sleeves as much as you want. Mine are 20cm long from top to bottom

Convert the sleeve to raglan:

  1. Draw a line for both front and back from the armhole to the neckline. You can choose where in the armhole and the neckline
  2. Record the distance from the side seam to where the line starts at the armhole for both front and back
  3. Record the distance from the shoulder line to where the line starts at the neckline
  4. Grab your sleeve and draw a line perpendicular to the hem that divides front and back
  5. Add the measurement you recorded for the neckline from that perpendicular line out
  6. Add the measurement you recorded for the armhole to the cap of the sleeve
  7. Connect both marks and draw the neckline

Make sure all the lines are continuous at the sides and for the neckline.

STEP 3 - The Ribbing

You can make the ribbing any width you want. For this example I will use 1.5cm. Another thing to take into account is the stretch of your fabric

Check the fabric stretch:

  • Fold your fabric lengthwise and mark a 10x10cm rectangle (4x4inches)
  • Get a ruler and hold one side of the fabric at the 0cm mark and the other one at the 10cm mark
  • Stretch the fabric from the 10cm mark to the right until it starts warping too much and write down the number. Let’s say in this example I stretched it to 14cm

 

Defining the length of the ribbing:

  • Calculate the stretch ratio by dividing the 10cm by the final length. In this example 10/14=0,7
  • The length of the ribbing will be the length of the neckline (front + back) times the calculated ratio
  • The width of the rectangle will be two times the desired with of the ribbing

STEP 4 - The Seam Allowances

The last step is to add the notches, pattern information and seam allowances.

  • Add 1cm (3/8inch) seam allowances to the neckline, armholes, and side seams for the main structure and the sleeves and 3 sides of the ribbing
  • Add 2cm (3/4inch) at hemline for both main structure and sleeves
  • Do not add any ease at CF or CB or on one side of the ribbing because the patterns will be cut on the fold.

 

Side opening: If you choose to add a side opening, add an extra 1cm (3/8inch) from where the opening starts and transition the seam allowance with a diagonal line.

Still curious? Here’s more