Drafting Instructions – Shirt Foundation

These are the free drafting instructions for the shirt foundation. This pattern is the base for any blouse or shirt designs and is different to the torso foundation as it should be more loose fitting.

Here you’ll be able to find a step by step guide on how to draft the three foundations:

  • The basic: this foundation is the one that follows the shape of the body the most
  • The casual: this one has more added ease without fully compromising the fit
  • The oversized: this last one has the most amount of ease and a more boxy shape

In order to draft this pattern, you’re going to need one of the main foundations: the top.

The shirt foundation is an oversized top that is lengthened down to the hip. Contrary to the torso, this time you don’t need the skirt foundation because it doesn’t fit as tightly to the body.

Make sure to fix any fitting issues on the top foundation before moving to the drafting process. This will ensure a smooth process and less frustration.

TOP

The Basic Shirt

This foundation is supposed to follow the shape of the body with extra ease added. The pattern has one dart that can be used as gathers on the shoulder or be moved to the bust or other locations.

To create this design, we’ll use the darts to add ease to the pattern:

  1. Transfer 1.25cm from the front shoulder dart to the armhole 
  2. Add 1.25cm to the front shoulder 
  3. Remove the dart from the back shoulder (check that front and back shoulders have the same length)
  4. Lower the front and back armholes 2cm down and 2cm out
  5. Take in 2.5cm at the waist

You can make the shirt block as long as you want but make sure that the hem is wide enough to fit your hips. You can use the skirt foundation to check.

The Casual Shirt

This foundation is drafted in a similar way to the basic shirt but the amount of ease is bigger and there are no darts remaining

  1. Transfer the whole front shoulder dart to the armhole
  2. Add 1.25cm to the front shoulder
  3. Remove the dart from the back shoulder (both shoulders should be the same length)
  4. Lower front and back armholes 4cm down and 2.5cm out
  5. Take in 2.5cm at the waist for a more fitted look

 

You can make the shirt block as long as you want but make sure that the hem is wide enough to fit your hips. You can use the skirt foundation to check.

The Oversized Shirt

This foundation is based on the casual shirt foundation, so before getting started, transfer that foundation into a new piece of paper.

  1. Draw a line mid shoulder that is perpendicular to the hem
  2. Add as much ease as you want. If you’re not sure, try 2cm at a time.
  3. You can also choose to lower the armholes as much as you want

 

And just like that the pattern is ready!

Once you have the foundations, it’s time to play around and change the necklines, add volume, change the opening, play with the seams or add any details you’ve ever dreamed of. This are the perfect foundations for shirt and blouse designs, so the world is your oyster!

If you want to know more about how to modify the foundations check the tops 101 page or take a look at the free pattern instructions.

If you want to have a handy summary of all the top foundations and the instructions on how to change from one to another plus a pattern organiser and a pattern contouring cheat sheet, I have you covered.

Head to my shop by clicking the image on the right and get it now!

Cheat sheet - Top Foundations

€ 5,00

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