These are the free drafting instructions for the stretch top foundations. Here you’ll be able to find a step by step guide on how to draft the three foundations:
In order to draft this pattern, you’re going to need the Oversized torso foundation.
For these instructions we will start from the Casual version, move to the Oversized and finally explain the Basic foundation. This is because the basic foundation is based on the casual and more information is needed on the stretch of the fabric.
Make sure to fix any fitting issues on the torso foundation before moving to the drafting process. This will ensure a smooth process and less frustration.
This foundation is the base for the other two. This pattern is meant to fit around your body by following its natural curves but without being too tight. It has 0 darts depending on how curvy you are and ends at hip level.
This foundation uses the casual stretch top foundation and adds ease around the armhole and at shoulder level. The elasticity of the fabric is not that important as long as it is minimal stretch. You can make the top as oversized as you want by following the same instructions.
This foundation is used when you are looking for a tight fitting look and you are using elastic fabrics. This is the base pattern for tank tops and halter tops. In order to draft it, you are going to need a couple of measurements:
Measure the circumference of your hip, this is the wides part of the hips.
Measure the circumference of the waist which normally is the thinest part of your torso. Just below the ribs.
Measure the circumference of your bust, making sure the tape is not too tight and it’s over your bust apex.
Measure at the front from armpit to armpit. The tape should be over your breasts and not over the nipples.
Measure from the base of your neck along the shoulder until the shoulder bone.
This foundation is based on the Casual Stretch foundation. Transfer the following lines from the foundation: centre front and back, necklines, shoulder line, chest line (mid armhole), underarm line, waist line and hip line
Next, add the following measurements:
For the shoulder, add the shoulder measurement from the edge of the neckline until it touches the shoulder line. Then connect all the pieces together and it’s ready!
The basic pattern is drafted for fabrics that have minimal elasticity. This means that the fabric only stretches up to 25%, so a sample of 10cm (4inches) stretches up to 12.5cm (5inches).
To modify the pattern for more elastic fabrics, we will add negative ease. This means the pattern will get reduced the amount written below:
These is measured in intervals, so as an example, the moderate stretch will be reduced by 1cm at the waist line and the very stretchy will be reduced 2cm from the minimal stretch, and so on.
Some fabrics have 4 ways stretch, the instructions are not included in this post yet.
Once you have the foundations, it’s time to play around and change the necklines, add volume, change the opening, play with the seams or add any details you’ve ever dreamed of. This are the perfect foundations for dress designs, so the world is your oyster!
If you want to know more about how to modify the foundations check the tops 101 page or take a look at the free pattern instructions.
If you want to have a handy summary of all the top foundations and the instructions on how to change from one to another plus a pattern organiser and a pattern contouring cheat sheet, I have you covered.
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