Drafting Instructions – Torso Foundation

These are the free drafting instructions for the torso foundation. Here you’ll be able to find a step by step guide on how to draft the three foundations:

  • The basic: this foundation fits tight to the body
  • The casual: this one has more added ease without fully compromising the fit
  • The oversized: this last one has the most amount of ease and a more boxy shape

In order to draft this pattern, you’re going to need two of the main foundations: the top and the torso.

The torso foundation is the combination of these two. It is possible to draft it without the skirt foundation but it is always better to use a pattern.

Make sure to fix any fitting issues on the top and skirt foundations before moving to the drafting process. This will ensure a smooth process and less frustration.

TOP
SKIRT

The Basic Torso

This foundation is the base for the other two and is the “most complicated” one. This pattern is meant to fit around your body by following its natural curves. It has 1 or 2 darts depending on how curvy you are and ends at hip level.

Step 1

  1. Transfer the front shoulder dart from the top pattern to the bust
  2. Draw a horizontal line. This will be used as the waist line
  3. Align the skirt with the waist line
  4. Align the top pattern so the CF and CB lines form a continuous line with the skirt.

 

The side edges should touch the waistline. To help you, use the darts or cut an extra line for the back pattern

Step 2

Next step is drafting the darts. These will depend on your body shape, if you have a curvy body you are probably going to need two, and if you are more rectangular one might be enough.

Here below I show you how to draft two darts, but in the case you only want one, just draw it in the middle between these two.

The darts will have the same length they have for the top and skirt pattern. Let’s see how to space them:

  • Front: Start the first dart where it sits on the skirt (dart closer to the side seam). The dart tips should be spaced 4.5cm apart.
  • Back: Start the first dart where it sits on the skirt (dart closer to the CB). The dart tips should be spaced 5.5cm apart.

The Casual Torso

This foundation is drafted from the Basic torso and is a version with added ease so the pattern is more comfortable and still contours around the body.

  1. Transfer the front and back basic torso foundation pieces
  2. Remove the darts closest to the side seams for both front and back

 

If you only have one dart, simply reduce it by half the amount.

As you can see, this foundation is very similar to the previous one.

The Oversized Torso

This foundation is also drafted from the Basic torso and is an oversized look with a boxy fit and plenty of ease.

This foundation is based on the basic torso foundation, so before getting started transfer that foundation into a new piece of paper.

  1. Remove both waist darts for both front and back
  2. Lower the back armhole 0.5cm
  3. Lower the bottom of the bust dart by 0.5cm
  4. Add 1.25cm to the waist for both front and back patterns

And just like that the pattern is ready!

Once you have the foundations, it’s time to play around and change the necklines, add volume, change the opening, play with the seams or add any details you’ve ever dreamed of. This are the perfect foundations for dress designs, so the world is your oyster!

If you want to know more about how to modify the foundations check the tops 101 page or take a look at the free pattern instructions.

If you want to have a handy summary of all the top foundations and the instructions on how to change from one to another plus a pattern organiser and a pattern contouring cheat sheet, I have you covered.

Head to my shop by clicking the image on the right and get it now!

Cheat sheet - Top Foundations

€ 5,00

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