If you want to start modifying your Bodice Block, there are a couple of principles you need to learn, and one of them is Pattern Contouring.
If you’ve ever tried changing the neckline of your pattern, you probably had some problems with gaps appearing in certain places. This is because the basic block is a tight fitting pattern and it uses certain points (bust, and shoulders are some examples) in your body to tension the fabric so if there are some curves, it goes over them. When you cut the neckline, those points loose their tension and the fabric doesn’t know how to fill the natural curves of your body.
Pattern Contouring is our tool to identify where those curves are, where the gaps might appear and how big they might be. So get your bodice block and let me show you how to mark all these guidelines based on your body shape.
Note: Pattern Contouring might be a bit overwhelming. Read this article or watch the video as many times as you need, but the best thing is to try it yourself!
In this section of the article I will show you how to add the Pattern Contouring Guidelines to your Bodice Block. To follow this tutorial you will need your bodice block, a measuring tape and a ruler. One last thing before we start, it is better if all the front darts are moved to the waist so the guidelines don’t cross any darts. If you want more information on how to move darts, check this article here.
MEASURE: Place the edge of the measuring tape at the apex and measure the size of your breast. Measure it upwards, towards the chest line.
PLACEMENT: Draw a circumference using the bust point as the centre and the breast size as the radius.
MEASURE: Place the ruler from the edge of the armhole at shoulder level to the bust. Measure the biggest gap between the ruler and your body
PLACEMENT: Connect the bust point to the edge of the shoulder at the armhole. Add the measured gap to where the line crosses the breast circumference
STANDARD: 1.3cm
MEASURE: Place the ruler from mid armhole to the bust point. Measure the gap between the ruler and the body at armhole level.
PLACEMENT: Draw a line from the bust point to mid armhole. Add the length of the gap measured to the right of that line and connect it back to the bust point.
STANDARD: 0.6cm
MEASURE: Place the ruler from the apex to the waist. Measure the gap length where it is the biggest.
PLACEMENT: Add the measured gap where the dart legs cross the breast circumference. Add half of the gap measurement to each side and connect it back to the bust point.
STANDARD: 2cm (1cm each side)
MEASURE: Place one side of the ruler at the edge of the neck mid level and the other side at the bust point. Measure the biggest gap between the ruler and the body.
PLACEMENT: Connect the bust point
STANDARD: 0.6cm
MEASURE:
PLACEMENT:
STANDARD: 1.3cm
MEASURE:
PLACEMENT:
STANDARD: 2cm (1cm each side)
MEASURE:
PLACEMENT:
STANDARD: 0.3cm
MEASURE:
In this part of the article I will show you some examples on how to use the Pattern Contouring guidelines depending on the neckline you would like to add to your bodice block. For more step by step tutorial, check the video down below.
Guidelines: Neckline and shoulders
Guidelines: Neckline and shoulders
Guidelines: Neckline and shoulders
Guidelines: Neckline, Armhole, Lower armhole, Back and side seams
Guidelines: Neckline and shoulders
Guidelines: Neckline, bust and shoulders
Guidelines: Neckline, shoulders
Guidelines: All except for Empire
If something is still not clear or you like visual step by step instructions, here is a video explaining everything I’ve talked about in this article plus a tutorial on how to draft each neckline. Good luck and have fun creating!
