The Jacket Foundation

These are the free drafting instructions for the jacket foundation. Here you’ll be able to find a step by step guide on how to draft the three foundations:

  • The basic: this foundation fits tight to the body
  • The casual: this one has more added ease without fully compromising the fit
  • The oversized: this last one has the most amount of ease and a more boxy shape

In order to draft this pattern, you’re going to need one foundations: the torso/dress.

The jacket foundation is basically a version of the torso foundation with some added ease to account for the layers of clothing you wear below it.

Make sure to fix any fitting issues on the torso foundations before moving to the drafting process. This will ensure a smooth process and less frustration.

TORSO

The Basic Jacket

This foundation is the most tight fitting one out of them all. It is perfect for blazers.

  1. Transfer the bust dart to the armhole and neckline
  2. Lower the neckline 0.25cm at centre front (CF) and centre back (CB) and add 0.25cm at shoulder-neck level
  3. Move the end of the shoulder 0.5cm up and outwards
  4. Lower the armhole 1.25cm down and outwards
  5. Add around 1.25cm to the waist and the hip

 

This pattern keeps both darts used in the torso foundation.

The Casual Jacket

This foundation is drafted from the Basic torso and is a version with added ease so the pattern is more comfortable and still contours around the body.

  1. Transfer the bust dart to the armhole and ignore the waist darts
  2. Lower the neckline 0.5cm at CF and CB and add 0.5cm at shoulder-neck level
  3. Move the end of the front shoulder 1.5cm following the shoulder
  4. Lower the armhole 2.5cm down and 3cm outwards
  5. Add around 2.5cm to the waist at the hip

 

This pattern is perfect for blazers with a little bit more ease or jackets without darts.

The Oversized Jacket

This foundation is also drafted from the Basic jacket and is an oversized look with a boxy fit and plenty of ease.

This foundation is based on the basic jacket foundation, so before getting started transfer that foundation into a new piece of paper.

  1. Draw a line mid shoulder that is perpendicular to the hem
  2. Cut through the line and add as much ease as you want (in this example 2.5cm)
  3. You can also choose to lower the armholes as much as you want. Try to keep it proportionate to the amount added at mid shoulder

 

This pattern is perfect for oversized designs like a leather jacket, a utility jacket or even a denim jacket.

Once you have the foundations, it’s time to play around and change the necklines, add volume, change the opening, play with the seams or add any details you’ve ever dreamed of. This are the perfect foundations for dress designs, so the world is your oyster!

If you want to know more about how to modify the foundations check the tops 101 page or take a look at the free pattern instructions.

If you want to have a handy summary of all the top foundations and the instructions on how to change from one to another plus a pattern organiser and a pattern contouring cheat sheet, I have you covered.

Head to my shop by clicking the image on the right and get it now!

Cheat sheet - Top Foundations

€ 5,00

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