Drafting Instructions – Basic Top Pattern

Step number one is to build the structure of our top foundation. We start at the top left and mark 0.

• 0 – 1: Nape to waist measurement + 2cm
• 1 – 2: Half the bust circumference plus 5.5cm (This is for standard darts but we will adjust them later)
• Finish drawing the rectangle
• Divide the structure: From the line 0-1 half way to 1-2. The front is on the right and the back is on the left

Once the main structure is ready, let’s draw the necklines.

• 0 – 4: 2cm down
• 0 – 5: Neck/5 – 0.2cm
• Close the rectangle 0-4-5 and draw a diagonal line out of the rectangle that is 1.5cm long. With these points, you can now draw the back neckline (points: 4, diagonal, 5)
• 3 – 6: Neck/5 + 0.2cm
• 3 – 7: Neck/5 – 1.6cm
• Close the rectangle 3-6-7 and draw a diagonal line out of the rectangle that is 2.5cm long. With these points, you can now draw the back neckline (points: 6, diagonal, 7)

The next step is to define the main lines of the top

• 0 – 8: Nape to bust measurement – 1cm. This is the Bust Line
• 8 – 9: 3cm. This is the Underarm Line
• 4 – 10: Half the distance from points 4 to 9. This is the Back Line, so we will only mark it on the left side of the pattern
• 6 – 11: Half the distance from points 6 to 9 (or to the underarm line) + 2cm. This is the Chest Line so we will only mark it on the right side of the pattern
• 1 – 2: This is the Waist Line

Next step is to start drawing the armholes.

• 10 – 12: Half the Back measurement + 0.75cm. Draw a perpendicular line down to the underarm line
• Draw a diagonal line from where the line crosses the underarm line that is 2.5cm
• 11 – 13: Half the Chest measurement + 2.5cm. Draw a perpendicular line down to the underarm line
• Draw a diagonal line from where the line crosses the underarm line that is 3cm

We are ready to finish building the shoulders and the armholes!

• 0 – 14: One third of the distance 4-10 plus 1.5cm
• 6 – 15: 0.5 cm above the neckline
• 14 – 16: The distance 10-12 + 2.5cm. This is standard ease that takes into account the shoulder dart. It can be corrected later
• 15 – 17: Distance 11-13 + 4.25cm. This is also standard ease that depends on the dart

Now that we have all the lines, draw the back shoulder (from 5 to 16), the back armhole (16 to 12 to the diagonal and to the centre of the structure) with a curve. If you have a french curve it will be easier to draw. Then the front curve (from the middle to the diagonal, to 13 and to 17) also with a curve. And finally the front shoulder (from 17 to 7)

This pattern has a shoulder dart at the front and at the back, let’s draw them:

Back:

• The start of the dart is measured from 16 to the left along the shoulder and it’s shoulder/2 plus 0.5cm
• The dart is 1.5cm
• To find the length, draw a perpendicular line from the shoulder until 3cm above the back line

Front:

• The start of the dart is measured from 17 to the right along the shoulder and it’s shoulder/2 plus 0.5cm
• The shoulder length should be the same as for the back shoulder, the rest should be the dart
• The dart goes down to the bust line and to find the specific point, add half the bust separation from the line 3 – 2

To finish the pattern we’ll have to lower the front waistline to account for the chest. I will be using a standard measurement but feel free to lower it more if you have more prominent breasts.

• Lower Point 2 1,25cm (standard measurement) and mark “New 2”
• Draw a line from 1 to New two and measure how long it is

Now it’s time to add the waist darts. For it, we’ll have to use a little formula:

(Distance: 1 to New 2) – (Waist + 4cm)/2 = a

The “a” measurement shows us how much we have to reduce at the waist (with ease included) to shape the top. Every dart will reduce the following:

• Back dart: Reduce 33% of measurement “a”
• Side seam: Reduce 26% of the measurement “a”
• Front dart: Reduce from measurement “a” 27% to the left and 14% to the right